Introduction
Welcome to my latest amigurumi creation – an utterly charming axolotl that's sure to win hearts! I've always been fascinated by these unique aquatic creatures with their adorable external gills, sweet smiles, and gentle demeanor. This pattern captures all those distinctive features while maintaining the cuddly, huggable quality we love in amigurumi projects.
This intermediate-level pattern uses simple stitches in creative ways to form the axolotl's characteristic body shape, frilly gills, and sweet face. The pattern works up relatively quickly despite its detailed appearance, making it a satisfying weekend project. I've designed this cutie to be about 8 inches long when completed, the perfect size for little hands to hold or to display proudly on a shelf.
Whether you're making this as a gift for a nature lover, a cute addition to an underwater-themed nursery, or simply as a charming companion for yourself, this axolotl will surely bring smiles wherever it goes!
Materials
Yarn:
- Yarn A (Main Body): Worsted weight (4) in pale pink or light purple - approximately 120 yards (Suggested: Lion Brand Vanna's Choice)
- Yarn B (Belly/Underbody): Worsted weight (4) in white or cream - approximately 50 yards
- Yarn C (Gills and Accents): Worsted weight (4) in dark pink or fuchsia - approximately 30 yards
- Small amounts of black worsted weight yarn for embroidery details
Hook:
- 3.5mm (E/4 US size) crochet hook
Notions:
- 12mm safety eyes (2)
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing (approximately 3oz)
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Small amount of pink or peach embroidery floss (optional, for mouth)
- Small amount of white felt (optional, for teeth)
- Fabric glue (if using felt)
Skill Level & Techniques
Difficulty: Intermediate
Techniques Required:
- Magic ring/adjustable ring
- Single crochet (sc)
- Increases (inc)
- Decreases (dec)
- Working in continuous rounds
- Changing colors
- Sewing pieces together
- Simple embroidery
Expected Time Commitment: 6-8 hours total
Abbreviations & Terms
- ch - chain
- sc - single crochet
- inc - increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- dec - invisible decrease (decrease 2 stitches together)
- st(s) - stitch(es)
- rnd - round
- BLO - back loop only
- FLO - front loop only
- ( ) - stitch count at end of round
- - repeat instructions inside brackets
Pattern Instructions
Head & Body (worked as one piece, starting from the nose)
Use Yarn A (pale pink/light purple) unless otherwise noted.
Start at the nose:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] 6 times (12)
Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 6 times (30)
Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] 6 times (36)
Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] 6 times (42)
Rnd 8: [6 sc, inc] 6 times (48)
Rnd 9: [7 sc, inc] 6 times (54)
Rnd 10: sc in each st around (54)
Rnd 11: sc in each st around (54)
Place safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8, approximately 10-12 stitches apart.
Rnd 12: sc in each st around (54)
Rnd 13: [7 sc, dec] 6 times (48)
Rnd 14: sc in each st around (48)
Rnd 15: [6 sc, dec] 6 times (42)
Rnd 16: sc in each st around (42)
Rnd 17: [5 sc, dec] 6 times (36)
Rnd 18: sc in each st around (36)
Rnd 19: sc in each st around (36)
Body section:
Rnd 20: [5 sc, inc] 6 times (42)
Rnd 21: sc in each st around (42)
Rnd 22: [6 sc, inc] 6 times (48)
Rnd 23: sc in each st around (48)
Rnd 24: [7 sc, inc] 6 times (54)
Rnd 25-30: sc in each st around (54) for 6 rounds
Switch to Yarn B (white/cream) for the belly:
Rnd 31: Work 27 sc with Yarn A, then 27 sc with Yarn B (54)
Continue working with both colors, carrying the unused yarn inside the work:
Rnd 32-35: Work 27 sc with Yarn A, then 27 sc with Yarn B (54) for 4 rounds
Begin decreasing for tail:
Rnd 36: With Yarn A: [7 sc, dec] 3 times, then with Yarn B: [7 sc, dec] 3 times (48)
Rnd 37: sc in each st around maintaining color pattern (48)
Rnd 38: With Yarn A: [6 sc, dec] 3 times, then with Yarn
B: [6 sc, dec] 3 times (42)
Rnd 39: sc in each st around maintaining color pattern (42)
Rnd 40: With Yarn A: [5 sc, dec] 3 times, then with Yarn B: [5 sc, dec] 3 times (36)
Rnd 41: sc in each st around maintaining color pattern (36)
Rnd 42: With Yarn A: [4 sc, dec] 3 times, then with Yarn B: [4 sc, dec] 3 times (30)
Rnd 43: sc in each st around maintaining color pattern (30)
Rnd 44: With Yarn A: [3 sc, dec] 3 times, then with Yarn B: [3 sc, dec] 3 times (24)
Switch completely to Yarn A for tail tip: Rnd 45: [2 sc, dec] 6 times (18) Rnd 46: [1 sc, dec] 6 times (12)
Begin stuffing firmly, continuing as you complete the tail.
Rnd 47: [dec] 6 times (6) Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread through remaining stitches, pull tight to close and weave in end.
Front Legs (make 2)
With Yarn A: Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] 6 times (12) Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 6 times (18)
Rnd 4-7: sc in each st around (18) for 4 rounds
Switch to Yarn B for "fingers":
Rnd 8: [2 sc, inc] 6 times (24)
Rnd 9: sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 10: sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 11: [2 sc, dec] 6 times (18)
Rnd 12: sc in each st around (18)
Stuff lightly.
Rnd 13: [1 sc, dec] 6 times (12) Rnd 14: [dec] 6 times (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Back Legs (make 2)
With Yarn A:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] 6 times (12)
Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times (24)
Rnd 5-8: sc in each st around (24) for 4 rounds
Switch to Yarn B for "toes":
Rnd 9: [3 sc, inc] 6 times (30)
Rnd 10: sc in each st around (30)
Rnd 11: sc in each st around (30)
Rnd 12: [3 sc, dec] 6 times (24)
Rnd 13: [2 sc, dec] 6 times (18)
Stuff lightly.
Rnd 14: [1 sc, dec] 6 times (12) Rnd 15: [dec] 6 times (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
External Gills (make 6)
With Yarn C (dark pink/fuchsia):
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: [inc] 4 times (8)
Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 4 times (12)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 4 times (16)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around (16)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around (16)
Rnd 7: ch 15, skip 1st ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch back to base, sc in next st on the gill, repeat [ch 15, skip 1st ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch back to base, sc in next st on the gill] 3 more times to create frilled edges (16)
Do not stuff gills. Fold flat and work sc through both layers to close: Rnd 8: sc 8 times through both layers (8)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Dorsal Fin
With Yarn A: Row 1: Ch 20
Row 2: Starting from 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (19)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (19)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (19)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (19)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, [1 sc, dec] 6 times, 1 sc (13)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (13)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, [sc, dec] 4 times, 1 sc (9)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (9)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, [dec] 4 times, 1 sc (5)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Tail Fin
With Yarn A:
Row 1: Ch 12
Row 2: Starting from 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch (11)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (11)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc 9, inc (13)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (13)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc 11, inc (15)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (15)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc 13, inc (17)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st (17)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, [dec] 8 times, 1 sc (9)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, [dec] 4 times, 1 sc (5)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Assembly Instructions
- Attach the legs: Position the front legs on either side of the body around rounds 27-28. Sew securely in place. Position the back legs on either side of the body around rounds 35-36. Sew securely in place.
- Attach the dorsal fin: Position the dorsal fin along the back of the axolotl, with the wider end starting near round 25 and extending toward the tail. Sew in place along the base of the fin.
- Attach the tail fin: Position the tail fin at the very end of the tail, sewing it in place securely.
- Attach the gills: Position three gills on each side of the head, around rounds 15-17, splaying them outward from the head. Sew securely in place.
- Embroider the mouth: Using black yarn or pink embroidery floss, create a small smile under the eyes between rounds 9-10. If desired, add small white felt teeth and attach with fabric glue.
- Add final details: With black yarn, add small nostrils on the front of the snout. You can also add small spots along the back using Yarn C if desired.
Technical Tips
Tension/Gauge:
- Aim for a tight stitch tension to prevent stuffing from showing through. If your stitches naturally tend to be loose, consider using a smaller hook (3.0mm).
- The finished axolotl should stand approximately 8 inches long from nose to tail fin.
Stuffing Techniques:
- Stuff the body firmly but not overstuffed, especially in the head area.
- Use small pieces of stuffing rather than large clumps to avoid lumps.
- A chopstick or pencil helps push stuffing into narrow areas.
- The legs should be stuffed lightly to maintain flexibility.
- Do not stuff the gills or fins.
Joining Components:
- Use the yarn tails left from each component for sewing when possible.
- When attaching limbs, use a whip stitch or mattress stitch for secure, nearly invisible seams.
- Pin pieces in place before sewing to ensure proper positioning.
Troubleshooting:
- If your axolotl won't stand properly, check that the legs are attached at the same height and position on each side.
- If the head seems floppy, you may need to add more stuffing to the neck area.
- If the gills don't stay upright, try lightly starching them or using pipe cleaners inside for support.
Customization:
- For a different colored axolotl, consider white, black, gold, or light blue as the main color.
- You can make the axolotl smaller or larger by using different weight yarn and appropriate hook sizes.
- Add sparkly yarn to the gills and fins for a "leucistic" or albino axolotl variant.
Conclusion & Care Instructions
Your finished axolotl amigurumi should measure approximately 8 inches long from nose to tail fin and stand about 4 inches tall. This adorable little aquatic friend makes a perfect gift for nature lovers, biology enthusiasts, or anyone who appreciates unique handmade treasures.
Care Instructions:
- Spot clean with a damp cloth if necessary.
- For deeper cleaning, hand wash gently in cold water with mild soap, press out excess water (do not wring), and air dry.
- Keep away from direct sunlight to prevent color fading.
- If safety eyes were used, this toy is not suitable for children under 3 years old.
Display Suggestions:
- Create a small "aquarium" display with blue fabric as water and small pebbles.
- Display alongside other aquatic amigurumi for an underwater scene.
- This axolotl looks adorable sitting on a shelf, desk, or bedside table.
I hope you enjoy making this sweet axolotl! If you share your creation online, I'd love to see it - tag me @trendydecos or use #trendydecosaxolotl so I can admire your work!
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How can I make my axolotl's gills stand up better? A: If your gills are drooping, you can insert a thin pipe cleaner into each gill during assembly. Alternatively, you can lightly starch the gills after completing them. Just dissolve a small amount of cornstarch in water, dip the gills, shape them, and allow to dry completely.
Q: Can I use a different weight yarn for this pattern? A: Yes! If using DK (3) weight yarn, use a 2.75-3.0mm hook, and your axolotl will be slightly smaller (about 6-7 inches). With bulky (5) weight yarn and a 4.5-5.0mm hook, it will be larger (about 10-11 inches). Stitch counts remain the same regardless of yarn weight.
Q: Why does my axolotl body look lumpy? A: Lumpy appearance usually comes from uneven stuffing. Try using smaller pieces of stuffing and distribute them evenly, pressing firmly but gently to smooth out lumps. Using a chopstick helps reach tight spaces.
Q: How do I get the color change for the belly to look neat? A: When changing colors, complete the last stitch of the previous color until you have two loops on the hook, then yarn over with the new color to complete the stitch. Carry the unused yarn inside the piece rather than cutting and rejoining.
Q: My axolotl won't stand up properly. What did I do wrong? A: Check that your legs are the same size and attached at the same height on both sides. Make sure the body is evenly stuffed, especially at the bottom. If needed, you can slightly overstuff the bottom of each leg to create a firmer base.
Q: Can I make this axolotl child-safe without safety eyes? A: Absolutely! Instead of safety eyes, you can embroider the eyes using black yarn with small white highlights. This makes the toy suitable for all ages.
Q: How do I create the frilly effect on the gills? A: The chains in round 7 of the gill pattern create this effect. Work slowly and make sure each chain is the same length. If your chains curl too much, try working them a bit looser than your normal tension.
Q: Can I make this axolotl waterproof for bath time? A: While cute, I don't recommend this amigurumi for water play as regular yarn will absorb water and can develop mold or mildew. If you want a bath toy, consider using cotton yarn and stuffing with polyester that dries quickly, but remember it will still need thorough drying after each use.
Q: How can I customize my axolotl to look like the leucistic (white with pink gills) variety? A: For a leucistic axolotl, use white or off-white yarn for the main body, pink for the gills, and embroider small black eyes. You can add very subtle pink stitches around the legs and face for added realism.
Q: What's the best way to attach the fins so they don't flop over? A: Sew the fins along their entire base to provide maximum support. For the dorsal fin, you can also insert a thin piece of plastic canvas or felt inside before closing to help it stand upright.
© Patricia Poltera - trendydecos.com
